plsr tunes
am Start
- Registriert
- 21. April 2005
- Beiträge
- 41
haha brauch ich sicher eine special edition... na sicher nit.... den normalen!!!
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Original geschrieben von Dj2CuT
Was?! Mit dem Noisy Stylus aufdruck ist man gleich 1000x
besser ;P
Original geschrieben von Dj2CuT
Wie man auf so ein Quatsch kommt versteh ich bis heute nicht
wenn das Teil wenigsten ein bis zwei Technische unterscheide
hätte aber naja warscheinlich einfach nur abgeschaut wie
beim Vestax 05Pro Q-Bert Edition *löl*
Original geschrieben von pHiL phadeR
Sicher nicht. Aber vielleicht mit dem neuen Eternal Fader der da drin ist ?!
Original geschrieben von Got Soul?
man, warum kommt der hak 380 erst so spät...wenn der früher käme würde ich mir den sobald ich geld habe kaufen
Original geschrieben von Mister_Smee
btw.. was schätzt ihr den so preislich?
Original geschrieben von Question Mark
der fader wurde bei allen 360er geupdated...
Original geschrieben von Got Soul?
hmm...ich könnte mir denken, dass die den knapp unter dem rane halten wollen
Original geschrieben von plsr tunes
das q-bert model is da dann schon ein unterschied bei vestax, aber das kostet ja dann auch mehr als das normale pro 5er
Original geschrieben von pHiL phadeR
...ich find es wunderschööön!!!
...hät zu gerne eins...dann würd ich auch nicht mehr vom Rane träumen, obwohl ich doch mit dem Vestax-Penny&Giles-PCV verwachsen bin...
Original geschrieben von plsr tunes
@phil
hab da was falsch verstanden. im sorry!
zu schnelles und chaotisches lesen.
hab mir jetzt auch doch das ranettm56 geholt. hab aber ein problem. nach der ersten session am mischpullt gleitet der x-fader nicht mehr so gut. irgendetwas kratzt und ich weiß nit was?(hört sich an wie die feder?) was soll ich tun dass das weggeht... sonst ist der mixer echt vool gut
bitte um hilfe
Original geschrieben von Dj2CuT
Ruf mal bei Rane - Germany an oder in dem Laden wo du es
gekauft hast.
Original geschrieben von plsr tunes
ich weiß ich hab dasauch irgendwo schon gelesen aber ich finde es wirklich nicht mehr!..
Hi Phil,
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Thank you for the kind words.
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The 5% spray is designed for use with electronics and plastics and shouldn't harm your mixer in any way.
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One more suggestion: You can actually take the fader apart to better clean the rails and the plastic carrier slider. Flip the fader upside down (after removing it) and you'll see four phillips screws that hold the rail brackets. Remove one of the brackets (the side with out the ribbon cable) and gently remove the rails and carrier. Now you_can completely clean both rails and carrier slider without any obstructions.
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Hello Philipp,
Thank you for using Rane gear.
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No need to worry my friend we'll get your faders back to normal
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The following instructions will guide you through the no-contact fader servicing/cleaning procedure.
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1. Required Tool: #1 Philips screwdriver
2. Disconnect the power.
3. Remove knobs from controls covered by the Lexan faceplate.
4. Remove the four, 4-40 screws attaching the Lexan faceplate.
5. Remove the Lexan faceplate. See the picture and instructions below. The rails of the fader are now accessible for normal cleaning and lubrication.
6. Remove fader from mixer if more thorough cleaning is required.
7. NOTE: Do not disturb the position of the small sensors at each end of the Fader (see attached PDF). If you do, make sure the parts are standing straight before reinstalling.
8. NOTE: In order to achieve the highest possible accuracy, each magnetic fader is factory calibrated for the location in which it was shipped. If you remove the faders for cleaning, make sure you mark them. This helps you to put them back in the correct location.
9. Remove the fader by removing the two #4 screws securing it. Then disconnect the ribbon cable.
10. Sugary liquids spilled into a fader may be removed by thoroughly rinsing the part in hot water. Make sure the part is clean and dry before lubricating or reinstalling.
11. Removal of grease or other stubborn debris may require alcohol or contact cleaner. Make sure the part is clean and dry before lubricating or reinstalling.
12. To reassemble, reverse the disassembly procedure.
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Over all lubing_is the best way to address a fader drag problem. Remove the face plate and apply lubricant to the support rod near the spring._ If the rod is dirty, carefully clean with a lint free cloth before lubricating. A great way to polish the rods and remove accumulated contaminants is to tear off a strip of newspaper wide enough to fit around the exposed length of rod, and wrap it around the shaft. Then you can pull strip back and forth to buff the rod (think of it like polishing a shoe, but in reverse). Once this is done, the dirt will have been wiped away and a clean stainless shaft is ready for oiling. We recommend true 100% silicone lubricant, commonly available at hardware stores and automotive parts retailers. We personally recommend Caig's CaiLube MCL 100%_ found here ---->_[ http://shopping.netledger.com/s.nl/c.ACCT113328/sc.2/category.183/it.A/id.1746/.f ]http://shopping.netledger.com/s.nl/c.ACCT113328/sc.2/category.183/it.A/id.1746/.f_.__If you cannot find a 100% silicone lubricant, you may use any quality lubricant intended for use in electrical parts containing plastic. Sewing machine oil is probably okay.
For those who wish to obtain almost zero drag on the fader, gently push the spring downwards towards the circuit board, and rotate out from under the rod, then release. The spring will be above the rod and not making contact. This setting allows the fader to move more easily._ This can make controlled fading difficult, because the fader moves freely when released. You will not hurt the fader operating it this way.
When you finish the cleaning/lubing process and experience and "bleeding" on your faders then the hall sensor/s got pushed (bent) and is now too far from the magnet. Look for a small black plastic device --- about 1/8" square --- just below the rods at each end of the fader, mounted on the circuit board. It needs to be perpendicular to the PCB. If the sensor has been "bumped" during cleaning / lubrication, then it will not be close enough for the magnet to "turn off" the fader completely, resulting in bleed. Fix the problem by gently bending the sensor towards the middle of the fader, closer to the magnet. It doesn't take much movement to get it correct, so proceed carefully. A paper clip used gently works well, as will a very small screwdriver. If you break the sensor off, you'll need to get another fader so be extra cautious.
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I hope this helps.
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If you have any questions please feel free to ask.
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Best Regards,
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Shaun Whitcher
Rane Corp.
Technical Support
425-355-6000
Mukilteo, WA. USA
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